February 21st-22nd

I have just returned from the trip to San Vito, it was an amazing experience and it will take me awhile to sort through the photos and put the experience into words. I didn’t get a chance to write about the days following up to my departure, which were also very exciting. No pictures, decided to leave the camera home and take a break and just enjoy the moment. To be more honest, I forgot my camera. Had I brought a camera along these events would never have occurred, or at least that's what I tell myself.

On February 21^st we set off to circumnavigate the larger of the Tortuga Islands. This is the most dangerous paddle that we do, as it leaves you completely exposed to the huge ocean swells that have travelled across the pacific. You can only do this paddle with experienced kayakers and perfect weather conditions. It was a calm morning with barely a wave when we set off from the beach at Curu. I looked down into the water as I slowly glided over the sandy bottom of the bay. Bright green fish shaped like mackerel but with bold black stripes charged underneath my kayak, creating the first waves of the day. A group of stingrays glimmered in the early morning light, and banked away from my incoming kayak like stealth fighters flying in formation. We approached the first jagged point of the big Tortuga Island…off in the distance Bruce and I see a big splash. The first thing that came to mind was a whale…but it’s rare to see in this part of Costa Rica and we would be extremely lucky encounter one. We kept paddling with keen eyes locked on the horizon. About five minutes after seeing the splash I watched as fins began to emerge from the calm waters ahead. A few fins multiplied into many and soon we were on a collision course with a pod of spotted dolphins, 20 or more. The pod consisted of family members of all ages. There were young dolphins not yet covered in the mottled spots that adorned the adults. Elders bore the markings and scars of seasoned ocean goers and the young stayed close by their sides. Our kayaks connected with the pod and they glided effortlessly underneath us is the shallow turquoise water; a brief but extraordinary connection between worlds. They continued on towards the inner part of the bay, driven by a collective intelligence so misunderstood by humanity. We continued outwards towards the point. I began to think that the large splash I saw was from one of the dolphins jumping out of the water but this assumption was shattered when a massive form emerged from the water ahead of me. A pacific humpback whale! After surfacing a few times it arched it’s back and out came it’s huge tail, which quickly slid below the surface. Humpbacks come to shallow tropical seas in the pacific ocean to mate and have their young then they travel thousands of kilometers back to feeding grounds in cold temperate ocens. This humpback is likely to arrive off the coast of Canada around the same time I return in April. I think to myself, I am starting to like this “migration” idea. We watched it surface a number of times just off our port side as we kayaked around the island. It was a special day getting to paddle with both dolphins and whales (although dolphins ARE whales, we won’t get into the nitty gritty of cetacean cladistics). We made it around the island and tucked into the beach to let the experience sink in, along with a few cold beers.4

On the evening of the 22nd we went up the estuary with three clients and had a particularly interesting experience. We traveled up the river, seeing the usual varied array of wildlife that never ceases to amaze. On our way back down I saw an animal attempting to swim across river. Judging by the way it was clumsily dreading water it was obvious that it was not an aquatic specialist. I approached to see that it was a young howler monkey struggling to stay afloat, so Bruce and I pulled up along side it to help. Bruce extended a hand and aided the monkey as it pulled itself on top the front of his kayak. Once aboard it was obvious that this monkey was not well. It’s hair was matted, blood was dripping from it’s mouth and it’s eyes held a wild stare. This could mean only one thing; it was a zombie monkey or “Zombey”, as they are referred to in Central American folklore. Bruce carefully transported the zombey to the riverbank, where it departed to feast on the brains of the unsuspecting. I discretely checked Bruce for bite marks and carefully monitored his behavior over the next 24 hours. Luckily, he escaped transferal into the realm of the living dead. Just goes to show how easy it can be to start a zombie apocalypse.

All jokes aside, were not quite sure what was wrong with the monkey. It is possible that it had mange; a disease caused by parasites. I felt bad for the young howler, nonetheless, it made for an interesting experience.

Like I said…It will take me awhile to go through all the photos from San Vito and organize them into a post. It was an incredible experience to visit a place where no (or very few) tourists ever go. A special thanks goes out to Carlos, Jaimee and their beautiful family who took me in for 4 days and put up with my incessant curiosity and obsessive photographic habits. For everyone back home, love you and take care.

-Nick

February 11th - 20th

February 11th - 15th 

 The five day trip went really well, with lots of new experiences and good times with good people. I got to explore further into the Gulf of Nicoya and saw plenty of wildlife, including a dozen or so sea turtles (green and hawksbill). We paddled around some of the more isolated islands of the peninsula. A group of islands had the ominous name of The Negritos, or "The Dark Islands". It was particularly calm and we were able to get quite close to huge rock formations that normally were too dangerous to approach. Giant rock spires jutted up from the turquoise waters that shimmered with colorful reef fish. Large ocean swells crashed into the many caves and passages of the rockwork, creating thunderous roars that seemed to resonate form the center of the earth. Water would explode out of the caverns in a pressurized salty mist, a soothing breeze to beat the heat. 

Pelicans flocked together on the small islets, it seemed odd to see them taking a break from indulging their insatiable appetites...

Caesera provided the usual, surprise visits from strange animals. I didn’t sleep at all the first night because I drank coffee before going to bed, I don’t know why I guess it was simply a vessel to enjoy a bit of Café Rica, a coffee liquer that we had brought along. My mind was racing when I laid down to sleep, so I left the comfort of my sleeping bag to explore the beach. I managed to find a giant cockroach that would provide the necessary company in my tent… 

I felt a strange connection with the large insect, it seemed to display a curiosity rarely seen in the insect world. It crawled around, exploring the crevices within the pile of my sand covered clothing. It would pause every now and then to clean itself, much the same way a cat does…It actually made for some good company and entertainment, who’d of thought. I let it go after an hour or so… such a small tent is no place for a giant cockroach.

I laid down and attempted to go to sleep, but sleep never came, only those fleeting moments when you thought you may have been asleep but were now awake and it didn't matter. This leads to frustration and more awakeness, a vicious cycle. I gazed up through the bug netting of my tent,  the bright half-moon lit it's way through the palm fronds above me...

 Every now and then a coconut would fall against the ground with a loud thud that could be felt through the hard packed sand. A bit too close for comfort...I thought to myself...of all the ways to go out, I hope it isn't from a falling coconut. These thoughts didn't help me sleep. 

 After the sleepless night I awoke to activity in the palm trees overhead. Howler monkeys…I thought, but something about it warranted a second look. I dug out my binoculars and used the rubberized eyepieces to pry open my bloodshot eyes. I observed a medium sized mammal, reddish–brown in color, with a long tail and huge eyes. It’s arboreal skills were enough to rival that of the most skilled monkey. I new what I was looking at, I had seen them on TV when I was young, but the name eluded me. I had to grab a guide-book and look it up…a Kinkajou! Early explorers first thought it was a primate, fooled by it’s long prehensile tail and grasping limbs. It is actually more closely related to raccoons, however, it looked nothing like a raccoon to me, or anything else for that matter….Although it’s classified as a carnivore, it eats mainly fruit and nectar, gaining it the moniker “honey bear”. I watched as it skillfully maneuvered through the tree tops.  It returned one last penetrating stare before disappearing into the tangled forest, ending it’s nocturnal forage just as the sun rose above the horizon. Unfortunately no photo could be taken but here is a link to the Wikipedia page if your interested in reading more about these fascinating animals…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinkajou

On the evening of the last night I had an interesting encounter when I went to visit the outhouse, which is set against a think slope of tropical forest. One of our clients was just exiting the outhouse as I went in. I flashed my headlamp around and used my walking stick to check for anything that you wouldn't want to disrobe in front of. I noticed a sizeable scorpion clinging to the wall next to the toilet. It must have been within a few inches from the head of the last occupant…I figured that I had better remove it from the outhouse. I had no experience wrangling scorpions but thought it as yet another addition to the CV, so I picked up a small stick (too small) and tried to get it to walk onto the tip. Turns out scorpions are a lot faster then I thought…It scrambled onto the stick and shot directly up towards my hand. Luckily I managed to grab the other end of the stick before any harm could be done. I then proceeded towards the campsite to show our client who she shared the outhouse with…

The next morning we departed to return to Curu.  We paddled under an ominous, but calm sky and visited some of the more rugged coastline of the Tortuga Islands…

Our group! Left from right - Bruce, Leanne, Martha and Brian

February 16th - 18th

After the five day trip we went to San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. It is your typical city full of unhappy people and ugly buildings. I bought a classical guitar and a book by my favourite biologist, E. O. Wilson. 

February 19th

This evening I went up the estuary in my kayak during an extremely high tide. The ocean was spilling into the river mouth, it's large waves crashing against the banks and overflowing into the forest. This made it very hazardous to launch a kayak. I slipped my boat down over a rock embankment and stirred the water with my paddle, checking for crocodiles before entering. The water was high into the mangroves making it possible to paddle into areas I had never been before. Fish were feeding all around me, some were over two feet long and could be seen moving in schools just under the surface, creating large v shaped waves. A crocodile or caimen (something large, toothy and ancient) exploded through the surface about 20 feet from my kayak, trying to grab one of the fish. Birds were all around but the light was not cooperating, so I spent most of my time enjoying the serenity and richness of the river rather then photographing. I did manage to get a shot of a bird that has eluded me for quite some time. The light was not very good but the uniqueness of the White Ibis makes this photograph worth sharing…Note the mud caked onto the bill, these guys prod deep into the ground in search of insects and other small animals.

I got a shifty photo of a endangered neotropical river otter as it slid down the riverbank into the water…I really hope I get to see one again and have a chance at a better shot, but they are quite rare in most areas.

In case you havn't seen enough all ready, here's another picture of a white bird with a long bill!  This one is called a cattle egret due to their habit of following cows around and snapping up the insects that try to escape the heavy hooves...

And lastly, I finally got close to a green kingfisher, these guys are among my favourite residents of the estuary...

I have received an exciting invitation from Carlos, the owner of the cabina i’m staying at. He and his wife Jaimee are leaving to visit family in San Vito, a town situated in the extreme south of Costa Rica and has asked if I would like to accompany them. We will drive down the pacific coast for 6 hours and then go up into the rainforest shrouded mountains of south central Costa Rica. This will be a chance to see true rainforest and many new species. We leave next Friday and will be returning on Sunday. As for this week, we are doing an overnight paddle into the interior part of the Nicoya Peninsula with a friend from Newfoundland, then on Wednesday and Thursday we are doing tours with an adventure travel company called Tauck.
           

I hope everyone in Canada is managing well with the harsh winter. The worst should be over now right? Thanks for reading

Cheers!
            -Nick 

February 8th

Yesterday I spent the evening paddling up the estuary in Tambor.  I launched my kayak into the surf at the beach, hoping that the drybags holding my camera equipment would stay true to their name. The tide was flooding into the estuary and once I positioned my boat, I surfed a wave into the mouth and was sucked into the calm eden of the river. It feels just like paddling up the amazon; birds sounds radiate from the vegetation and monkeys swing from branch to branch…beautiful…magnificent…blah blah blah, you’ve heard it from me before, so lets just get to the photos. It was a great evening in the soft light of a setting sun and beautiful subjects were not hard to find.

This is a great egret...

Mangrove swallow...

This is a great egret with a blowfish he caught. You can see the fish fully inflated, which made it difficult for the heron to swallow the fish. However, the heron had a plan, he walked up the beach and placed the blowfish on the hot sand. After a few minutes of flopping around, the fish expired and deflated. The heron then grabbed the fish and went back down to the water. Before eating the fish, the egret carefully washed all the sand off it.

A young Kiskadee that seemed very perplexed about what was floating by...

Great egret again...

Tri-colored heron displaying their strange fishing technique...

Great egret in flight...

I was having a few drinks at the bar, my usual post photographic hang-out. This is where I have a few wobbly-pops and edit my photos or write blog entries (come on, you didn’t think all this writing came from a sober mind did you?). Anyway, while I was working away, a large tree frog hopped into the bar and caused a commotion with the workers.  I have started to gain a bit of a reputation as the guy who loves all creatures great and small, and they usher me over for a look. I pick the frog up to remove it from the alien environment. To my delight, I find it most different from the frogs I am familiar with. The skin is soft and moist, but this small amphibian is more a kin to a tiny monkey in the way it gripped my fingers and maneuvered through my hands. The hands and feet are equipped with padded tips that help grab onto anything in reach. This guy jumped over 6 feet to grab onto a small vine, where I photographed him.

I am leaving on a five-day trip on Friday with three clients. I hope to come back with some interesting stories to write about and will try and bring some photo equipment along to record anything I see. Until then, all the best to everyone back home!

February 4th

I have almost been here for a month! Time flies…I guess that what happens when you spend so much time with feathered folk. We have been very busy doing tours; the job is a lot more strenuous than I could have imagined. It involves hauling a lot of gear and boats in 35 degree heat, and a lot of patience when dealing with difficult tourists. However, the vast majority of people are a pleasure to bring onto the water. Yesterday I had to rescue a 250 pound man and get him back into his kayak…which took every ounce of my strength. Looking back on it I could have done alot of things differently to make his experience easier and less stressful. I guess every experience is a learning one. I take any free time I have to explore the habitats around me. I have covered very little ground, and I am constantly finding new places that hold unique experiences. I havn’t posted in awhile because of the busy work week. I hope to be posting on a more regular basis in the future. This next week isn’t looking as busy, so I should be able to get some photographic fodder to make a good post. I plan on taking my gear and spending a few days in the Curu wildlife refuge where many unique and strange animals roam.

Some experiences in the last couple weeks…

I finally got to see a Motmot! I had a day off and after contemplating whether or not to do my evening walk, I hiked down to the river, I’m glad I did. Even though I had never seen a Motmot, I new exactly what I was looking at when I spotted it from about 200 yards away. I have a terrible memory and have a hard time remembering things I have done and things I need to do, however, birds are different. I have spent countless hours looking through the pages of exotic bird books since I was a young child, hoping for the day when I finally got to see them. The Motmot was everything I could have hoped for, as they are truly beautiful birds. The one I got to photograph was quite tame given such an exotic bird…it would hop from branch to branch, it’s brilliant plumage shimmering shades of blue, green and red. I waited until it hopped into a pocket of sunlight to rattle off a few bursts with the motor drive of my camera. This single bird led me to its partner down by the river and I followed the exuberant pair through the think tangle of vines and mangroves. They were partaking in some odd form of communication, twirling their long spade tipped tails in a mesmerizing dance and calling back and forth with frog-like croaks. They jumped through the low branches around me, croaking and nodding their heads. The pendulous movement of their long turquoise tails had a hypnotic effect. I felt like I was down the rabbit hole; these guys belonged in Alice’s wonderland. It is very foolish to move through the jungle while looking up towards the canopy, and after a few minutes of excited pursuit I had to back off, knowing that sooner or later I would get tagged by a snake and/or serve a meal to a hungry crocodile.  I plan on returning to the area in the next few days to try and get a better shot and really capture how truly amazing these birds are, which is amazing enough to be chosen as the national bird of Nicaragua…

They have a grasshopper here that is big enough to trip over. I first saw it on one of my evening walks when I climbed to the top of a hill to get above a group of howler monkeys. It was attached to the side of a run down house, enjoying one of the most spectacular ocean views I had ever seen.  When I first spotted it I thought it was a child’s toy or a decoration, and as I approached for a closer look the massive size further reinforced this thought. That is, until it burst into flight with brilliant red wings that resembled that of a decent sized bird. I wish I had gotten a picture because apparently they are quite rare to encounter and many Costa Ricans havn’t even seen one, although, the average Costa Rican doesn’t go into the jungle searching for these types of things. I theorized that the reason I saw this rare grasshopper was because the steep and abrupt hill jutted above the canopy, which is most likely it’s primary habitat, rarely venturing to the ground. Scientists have only recently begun to explore the canopy of the tropical forests of Costa Rica and have since discovered hundreds of new species of insects.

I took advantage of holding the high ground over the howler monkeys, and watched as they moved through the canopy that was now beneath me. A newborn was clinging to it's mother’s back and seemed to take a keen interest in this loco blanco…

I spent some more time with the pelicans, down in the Bahia Ballena (whale bay).  These birds make great subjects with their unique behavior, insatiable appetites and synchronized plunges. The only issue is wading out into the surf with a 400mm telephoto lens while bracing against the large waves that routinely pound the beach. The larger waves come in sets, so you will settle in and begin shooting, looking through the viewfinder at the birds up high, not paying attention to the incoming surf. Every now and then you will get caught off guard by the roar of a large incoming wave and look up to see it bearing down on you. At this point I throw a towel over my camera and lean my back into the wave to break through. This experience could bring a swift end to the “photo” aspect of my photoblog. The first time I tried this I got hit with a very large wave that completely submerged me, with only my arms raising my camera above the crashing water. Despite my best efforts saltwater splashed up and soaked my camera, which thankfully is weather sealed. However, my extra battery pack and grip isn’t and it malfunctioned. I fixed it by locking it in a sealed case filled with silica packages that I brought in case this sort of thing happened. A bowl of rice works just as well and this is a great trick to keep in mind if you ever soak your electronics. Whatever the risk, the reward can make it worthwhile…

Safely back on the beach, I managed to capture my first shot of a Crested Caracara; a really wicked looking bird that is a large member of the falcon family. This particular Caracara is a young one and does not yet have some of the striking plumage seen in the adults…

I also captured an image of Tropical Kingbird as it coughed up a small seed…

I have started to infiltrate the local bar scene; a small but eclectic group of locals.  I bring my bird books with me and get tips on the whereabouts of the harder to find birds on my list.  Most of the locals know very little about the biological nirvana they live in and most see me as loco blanco (crazy white guy), some even refer to me as this. However, every now and then you meet someone with a keen interest in the natural world, and their knowledge of the area can be invaluable. The owner of the cabina I am living in is awesome… he fingers through my bird guides enthusiastically and then points in a direction, telling me how far to go to find rarer birds like fiery-billed Aracaris (a type of Toucan) and Roseate Spoonbills. There is a girl who works at the bar here named Rosie who kindly and patiently teaches me Spanish. She also tells me the Spanish names for the birds that I encounter and photograph. We communicate through a contorted dialect of Spanglish…

I hope everyone back home is doing well and enjoying all the snow! I know you may not be able to fathom this, but you really do miss a bit of snow when it’s 35 degrees out everyday.…Also, keep in mind that it hasn’t rained since I’ve been here.  I guess it just goes to show that no matter where you are you can still complain about the weather!

Gram and Gramp James; keep those e-mails coming, they bring love and support at the end of a long day.

Gram and Gramp Hawkins; hope the dog hotel is keeping you busy and miss you lots.

Chris Bubar; thanks for all the help with the boat hunt, maybe I’ll introduce this crazy idea on my next post.

Jess; I know your not into birds, but I do know your the only one who can appreciate this... Today I went to a get my haircut...the haircutter didn't speak english so she handed me a book of hollywood celebrities who's styles I was to choose from...I chose the James Franco signature...and the song that played on the radio while she cut away...which is one of the first english songs i've heard...Pretty Fly for a White Guy.

For everyone else; thanks a lot for the kind messages and encouragement. Coming to a place like this really makes you appreciate all of the amazing people that live in the place I call home.

Cheers
-Nick

January 21st

We part for a three day trip out to the Tortuga islands today, with two clients; a couple from Ottawa. I get up at 5AM and walk to the resort to help Bruce pack up the gear. I have talked about some of the hazards of this short 15 minute walk…crocodiles, howler monkeys, snakes…etc…However, This morning held yet another surprise, as most mornings do. Still half asleep, I round a corner and see two bulls in full charge running towards me along the narrow road….I really didn’t know what to do. After staring at my impending doom for a good 4 seconds, I jump into the bushes, taking my chances with whatever strange creatures I may disturb. The bulls stampede by, with three dog in hot pursuit. I continue my walk…but now the two bulls, having been chased off their paddock, decide to walk back, behind me, for the entire walk. I managed to snap a couple pictures. 

Once safely at Tambor, we pack the gear and head off to Curu to get ready for our clients.  After we meet with Barb and Steve (really nice people) we set off on the hour long paddle to make base camp on Quesera beach. I tried to put it's beauty into words in previous posts, but this time I will let it speak for itself... 

We set up a base camp on Quesera and prepare for the two nights we will be staying. I set-up my small two-man tent under a beach almond tree (to shield from falling coconuts).

 Rather then try to break down the trip chronologically, I am just going to write about some highlights of the trip. For many reasons, I could only bring my small backup DSLR camera with me, and one lens…so I don’t have pictures of any critters I ran into. Hopefully I’ll get to bring my gear out to Quesera beach sometime soon and spend some time capturing all the exciting life forms that fly, swim, climb and crawl around.

Snorkeling at the Tortugas

This was the first time I got to snorkel around the Tortugas, although the coral on the reef is not much too look at (see coral bleaching), the abundance and variety of fish was amazing. King angelfish, over a foot long patrolled the coral heads…butterflyfish pick at your feet and large schools of colorful reef fish sparkle all around you. I spot an octopus crawling across the bottom and dive down to get a closer look. In an instant the octopus changes color and and texture to match perfectly with a small rock next to him. Doesn’t fool me…I poke at his muscular body with my finger…he begins to flash through different color shades.  He extends one tentacle and grabs my arm…I remove it with a bit of difficulty, the suction pads on the tentacles are incredibly strong and make a sharp popping sound when they detach. I make a mental note that I should probably cease all physical contact with sea creatures. I also manage to find a moray eel, a distant look is enough to satisfy my curiosity.

Nightime on Quesera

Spending a night in a thriving tropical wildlife refuge was a great experience. At night, all the creatures of the cool club come out; scorpions, spiders, moths, crabs, snakes, owls etc…I am wearing my headlamp, which functions to attract a swarm of insects much the same way your patio lights do on a warm summer night. While cleaning up after dinner, a huge praying mantis flies in and lands on my shoulder. I turn my head and look into the eye of a truly alien creature…I really hope to get a picture of one of these guys soon (it flew off quickly) and will post it, but keep this story in mind when I do. A giant katydid also flew in and attached to my chest. These guys are like grasshoppers on steroids and have a body camouflaged as a large green leaf. Swatting and flailing is not efficient when the insects are poisonous and as large as mice…the best thing to do is to stand still until they land on whatever appendage they see fit, then deal with it calmly. While sitting on the kitchen table, I watch a small bark scorpion crawl between my legs. You get used to this. I go to climb into bed…I scare a snake from the leaf litter surrounding my tent, I am 95% sure it’s not venomous. A giant cockroach is climbing up the tree next to me, I try to pick him up, he hisses at me like a cat. I crawl into my sleeping bag and look up through the thin mesh of bug netting that separates “me” from “them”. Pushing those thoughts aside, I gaze at the silhouetted mosaic of palm fronds against the starry night sky and let the pounding surf put me to sleep.

Paddling among the Tortuga Islands

Each day we took our clients along new route around the Tortuga islands and surrounding areas. The weather was perfect, highs of 32 and lows of 22 with a light sea breeze to keep you cool. It was so clear that you could see the distant mountains of the central pacific coast of Costa Rica…

I got to see my first pacific ocean sea turtle! He/she popped up in front of my kayak to grab a quick breath before slipping into the deep blue water. Not sure what species…I’ll try to have my camera on the ready next time. 

On the evening of the first day we went to Playa Organos to practice surfing the waves there. I ended up in the water just as much as our two clients. Here’s a pic of Steve riding a small wave in…and a congrats from Bruce.

On the final day we pack up the gear and head back to the center of Curu. I snap a quick picture of Barb and Steve for a photo package I’m putting together for multi-day seascape clients…

Lastly, my posts would not be complete without some bird shots...I've had very little time to do any bird photography. Today (January 29th) is my first day off since last Friday and next week is looking quite busy as well. Today i'm going to work on constructing a hide out of palm fronds next to the mangrove estuary in Tambor. In front of this hide I plan on making a small freshwater bath to attract birds. My theory is that since we are in the grip of the dry season the fresh running water will bring thirsty birds to me rather than having to hunt for them. We will see how this goes and I will keep you posted. Anyway, here are some recent additions to my bird portfolio!

Willet

Bare Throated Tiger Heron

Inca Dove

Thanks for reading and take care! Miss you all very much.

January 16th – 21st

The days are flying by so fast now, it makes it hard hard to keep track of them all. I am filling them by learning as much as possible about the local biology. I wake up early in the morning to photograph in the warm soft light that comes with the rising sun. In the afternoon Bruce and I usually go for a paddle and work on essential guiding skills.  I have a lot to learn. I walk the grounds in the evening, doing something that I call “chasing the light”; the terrain around Tambor is very fairly mountainous, as the sun sets certain areas are shaded and the light moves. I start at one end of the bay and slowly work my way towards the other end, taking advantage of whatever opportunities are presented. The pictures I have posted have mainly been of birds, so for this post I will try to focus on some different animal groups...

January 16^th

We paddle out into the Bahia Ballena (Whale Bay) to practice some rescues. If a client capsizes in the open ocean you have to be able to get that person back in their kayak, regardless of their physical ability. I also practice self-rescues, which is how you would get back into your kayak if you were alone. This involves an inflatable air sac that you attach to your paddle for leverage. Afterwards, we go out to the point and play around a group of rocks just off the coast. Waves crash through a narrow corridor and collide with waves bending around the other side of the rock formation. This makes for an interesting “washing machine” torrent of crashing and colliding waves.  You can catch these waves with a kayak much the same way a surfer does; it is quite a rush. I notice small Tuna-like fish (I think they are called Rainbow Runners but am not sure on this). They feed at the surface, creating quite a disturbance. I watch as the schools swim underneath me in the crystal clear water. Bruce decides this is a good time to test my rescue skills and turns his kayak over in the middle of the surging waves. Sometimes I think he has too much faith in me, but I do manage to get him back in the kayak. On our way home I become over confident in my skills and drop my guard. A large hits me broadside, picking me up and quickly dumping me into the sea. A haul my swamped kayak onto the beach as the local kids point and laugh.

January 18^th

         Bruce is in San Jose for the day, which gives me time to wander about looking for strange animals. I don’t have to go far, I find a buzzing of activity just outside my door.  Small insects, about the same size as a mosquito, have built a tubular entrance into the rock wall. Closer inspection reveals some sort of miniature bee species. They come and go out of the entrance; some are regurgitating a “cement” of sorts, building the tubes that must lead into the interior of the hive. Some are hovering motionless outside the entrance, like tiny helicopters guarding from intruders. It seems to me that this would be a good time to take a break from bird photography and focus on the world of the small. I am unsure of whether or not these bees sting, but being so small they seem harmless. I lean in really close for a good picture.

            Afterwards, I grab my guidebook on insects and find out that these are stingless bees, which have lost use of their stingers for defensive purposes. However, they still have an active pheromone that signals the hive to attack intruders. It can be triggered by the scent of Citronella, causing the entire hive to swarm. I plan on giving this a try as soon as I can find a citronella-based product. I sit down to have lunch outside. There is a spiny-tailed iguana, also called a Ctenosaur, that comes down from a tree across the street. I throw him pieces of vegetables, which he snaps up with surprising gusto. These lizards are the fastest in the world, holding the Guinness world record at close to 50 kilometers per hour. I have seen this first hand and it is an incredible feat! They add a prehistoric element to the Costa Rican vista.

While we are on the topic on prehistoric looking creatures, I thought i'd share a photo of the crocodile! It's not very good, but it's enough to solidify his presence.  I usually only see the shine of his eyes in my headlight beam as I walk past the pond at night. However, I managed to get close one morning on the way to work...

January 19^th – Paddle up the estuary in Curu

Today we were supposed to bring a family paddling out in Curu. They decided to cancel the trip 30 minutes before departure…by that time we had already prepped the boats with all the gear so we decided to go for a paddle up the estuary. (This is a different estuary from the one at Tambor). We leave the sound of the pounding surf behind us as we glide into the entrance to the river. Brilliant blue needlefish, a foot long, swim just underneath the surface and glimmer in the sunlight as they pass. Snowy egrets are spread throughout the undergrowth. As we push up into the estuary, the river narrows, and the surrounding forest squeezes in from all directions. There is a strange peace that can be found amidst the tangled chaos of a mangrove forest. 

Despite the amount of life around you, there is little more then the scattered sounds of distant birds. Crabs of all kinds scuttle along the banks and up and down the mangrove roots, which shoot into down into the water like giant drinking straws, extracting nutrients from the salty brine. Mangrove hawks weave their way through the canopy overhead, swooping down to grab small lizards. I catch a glimpse at a Coati, which is medium size mammal similar to a badger or raccoon, but with a long tail. It scurries down from the tree tops and disappears into the tangle of exposed roots.  

On our way back we round the corner to meet the roar of the ocean, the change between the two habitats is very abrupt, and to make this transition is very interesting. I paddle into the breaking waves and make my way into the open bay. I see some strange fins sticking out of the water and pursue them to investigate...At first I think it's a shark, but then they slowly glide underneath me and reveal their true form...

They are some kind of ray. Bruce calls them "Diamondbacks" but I will have to do some research to find out what the species name is. Their is a pair of them and they fly underneath me like giant birds...gliding and twisting in some sort of courtship.
When we get back to the main beach at Curu a troop of white faced capuchin monkeys has taken over the establishment. They leap, run, and climb over everything. There are many disputes among members; these are settled by piercing screams that can be quite unsettling. I try to ease the tension with a peace offering...

January 20^th – Preparation for 3 day trip

Today we prep for our three day trip in the Curu wildlife refuge. There is a lot of preparation that goes into these trips to insure the comfort of the clients. We go to the a small town to buy the groceries which consist mainly of vegetables and fresh fruit. When we get back I begin to pack some of the kayaking gear. We keep the kayaks on a wooden rack behind the resort. I crawl through the rack, retrieving items from the hatches of the kayaks. Spider webs are strung along the rungs of the rack, and I push them away. This is something that doesn’t bother me, while walking through the woods in Canada it is quite normal. However, in Costa Rica it is very easy to forget the environment your in. The placid weather and soothing breeze over-shadow some of the dangers…After navigating my way through a particularly sturdy web I look up to see a Giant Orb weaving spider, one of the largest species in central America.  Their venom is not lethal, but they can deliver a nasty bite.  The female is large…very large (palm sized in large specimens) but the male is tiny and is eaten by the female after mating. This, to me, would curtail ones libido. I have always wanted to see an orb weaver, but perhaps not so close up on my first introduction. After looking closely at the stunning patterns along the cephalothorax, I knew I had to photograph it. However, this was going to very difficult. Orb weavers spin a tangle of webs in no particular arrangement, creating a large interwoven “orb” of silk. In order to get close enough I would have to cut my way into the center, and lie on my back directly underneath the spider…Then get my lens within 6 inches for the shot I wanted. This proved very frustrating, hot, and a bit intimidating. When looking through the viewfinder, it was like staring into the eyes of an extra-terrestrial. I could feel it’s strong, sturdy silk lines all around me and had to be careful not to cut the wrong lines, lest the entire sticky orb fall on top of me, spider and all.

I also discover some smaller spiders that hide amongst the woodwork...I will leave the interpretation of their body plan up to you...as I am still trying to figure it out.

After 20 minutes or so I got frustrated with the situation and left. Making my way slowly out of the tangle of silk, which was the strongest spider webbing I have ever felt. It actually took a bit of effort to break the strands.  To get an idea of the strength, consider this…Giant orb weaving spiders have been known to catch and eat birds. Don’t believe me? Check out the link below...
http://www.trendite.net/2008/10/23/mammoth-golden-orb-weaver-spider-eating-chestnut-breeded-mannikin-bird-pictures/

January 21st

Another prep day. We go over all the gear to make sure everything is in order. Our guests arrive at Tambor tropical and we have dinner with them. I find it odd to eat dinner and drink wine in in such a fancy place...they are dressed in nice clothes and engage in sophisticated conversation, while I try to tame my hair and dig the dirt from under my nails as discretely as possible. I still have cobwebs in my hair from my encounter with the orb weaver. Can't wait to bring these people into the real world!

Love you all, and take care...

January 13th

Today I do my first tour. We are taking a newlywed couple from Wisconsin out of Curu for a paddle to Quesera beach. We arrive there around 11 o’clock and it’s already 30 degrees. Bruce and I set-up under a leaning palm tree to prepare a fruit tray while the newlyweds go snorkeling. I am tempted by the emerald water and decide to take a dip as well. I grab a mask and snorkel and set off. The first fish I see is a large porcupine fish, who watches me curiously with big puppy dog eyes. The coral here is not healthy, it has bleached due to elevated water temperature. Bleaching occurs when the symbiotic algae living within the corals tissues leaves due to stress, usually brought by poor environmental conditions. This leaves the host coral unable to produce energy and the coral quickly wastes away. This problem is occurring on reefs worldwide and is a direct impact of global climate change. Despite the state of the coral, many fish still inhabit the rubble; wrasses, pipefish, damselfish and triggerfish are abundant. So are stinging translucent jellyfish, which make me wish I brought my wetsuit. Despite the burning sensation I push on, moving further out along the reef. I am caught off guard by a huge school of jacks, who envelop me by the hundreds. I swim within the school until they disappear into the depths.

After our fruit snack we set-off across the bay towards the Tortuga islands. Half-way across we encounter a small group of bottle-nose dolphins. Despite my best dolphin impression they seem disinterested in any sort of interaction.

            We get back to the resort around 4 o’clock. The light is perfect for photographing the various seabirds, so I set–off towards the beach. I wade out into the bay to get amongst the feeding birds, bracing against the waves as they roll in. Once settled in place I am amazed at what surrounds me; hundreds of diving seabirds all feeding on the masses of sardines that have crowded the shallow waters. From standing on the beach and looking out I knew that the bay must of held a lot of fish, but I had no idea just how many fish were in the bay.  The fish made the water froth with frenzy. They brushed against my legs as the massive schools squeezed me in place. There seemed to be more fish in the bay then water, and this is no exaggeration. They were leaping out of the water in every direction, the setting sun reflecting light off their silver bodies, like sparkling diamonds spread over a blue blanket. Every bird in the area was in on the buffet. The fish were so thick that they swam into the holes of my sandals, wriggling between my toes. I try to focus on taking pictures despite the strange sensation...

      I watched as thousands of fish poured out of the waves that rolled in. At times it looked as if the waves were made of fish. Silhouetted in these turquoise waves were larger, more imposing figures. I was not sure what these shapes were, but it still made me nervous while standing chest deep in water. I was told later that they were “just” Barracuda. The Pelicans, frigate birds and royal terns swooped and dove after fish in every direction. It was very special to be in the middle of such a spectacle... After the sunset, I turned to walk back up the beach. Dead fish littered the sand, concentrated at the high tide line. I pick one up and examine it; the mouth is huge, way out of proportion with the rest of the 3-inch body. I reason that these sardines are filter feeders, keeping their huge mouths agape while swimming in a constant forward motion to collect plankton...

         Black vultures take advantage of this feast, squabbling with each other over a single fish despite the thousands that surrounded them in all direction...

         Bruce leaves for dinner and I eat some leftovers. I head for home just after dark and having forgot my headlamp it makes for an interesting time. Walking through a tropical forest at dark is an amazing experience. The limited visibility heightens your sense of hearing, and you tune into the incredible sounds all around you. Birds, insects, bats and frogs all contribute to the chorus.  However, the choir is shattered by a sudden roar from the tree tops…I jump out of my skin...(You can't see anything in the video...it is completely dark)

January 14^th

            This morning we do a beach clean up. Bruce and I are the only ones who show up. Despite the secluded nature of Tambor, the beach is not exception to the masses of plastic that floats throughout our oceans. Each plastic bag we pick up could potentially save a life, as sea turtles will often mistake plastic bags for jellyfish (their main food source).  When considering the issue of garbage and pollution, it’s easy to get discouraged at the enormity of our impacts. However, after spending just over an hour cleaning the beach we had removed a significant amount of litter, the result of which was clearly visible. Sometimes you just need to tend to your own little piece of paradise, and let someone else worry about their own. I hope that we can all find our own piece and embrace this concept.

            I see a local fisherman dragging in the days catch and I approach to inspect the large fish. They are jacks…a large, streamlined fish built for speed and ambush, the same kind the I schooled with at Quesera beach. After looking them over, the fisherman picks one up and insists I take it. Not wanting to seem ungrateful, I take the fish, “Mucho Gusto!” I walk back to the resort with my large fish and bulging garbage bag. I enter the gate with a smug look and proud strut. The tourists watch as I walk by, I smile and nod at back. They are clearly impressed by my fish, and I make no attempt to divulge the true story of its origin.

            That afternoon Bruce and I paddle up the river estuary when the tide is high enough to permit it. The estuary is a crucial contributor to the diversity and abundance of life in Tambor. From January until May, the Nicoya peninsula goes through a dry season, where practically no rain falls. The trees lose their leaves, much like our fall. However, this is the time when the trees also flower, to take advantage of the prominent winds that help to disperse their pollen and seeds. The sight of the bare trees blossoming with red, orange and yellow blooms is an awesome scene. The fresh flowing water of the river is what attracts the birds, and keeps things relatively green around the riverbanks. We paddle up the mangrove-lined river, and I am reminded of a warning from Bruce; keep your eyes out for crocodiles.  He tells me a story of how he once paddled through a croc infested river: Prior to his departure a local had told him about a tour boat that capsized not too long ago; the people had to swim to shore to escape the crocodiles, three were eaten. We see many herons, egrets, kingfishers and hawks. Mangrove swallows fly just over the water surface, and land in small groups on any partially exposed pieces of wood...

Fish swim by in the shallow water, ever weary of the herons and kingfishers. I see Basilisk lizards sunning on the riverbank. These lizards can run up to 50 ft across the water, which has earned them the nickname “Jesus Christ lizard”. The tide starts to ebb, and we follow it out of the estuary to surf the waves that are rolling in at the river mouth. Small kids are throwing nets into the river, retrieving heavy loads of sardines.  We pull into the beach and I add a few rules the book…

Rule #1 - The Stingray Shuffle: When entering the water, shuffle your feet forward rather then stepping down. This will scare stingrays away before they can impale your foot with a venomous barb.

Rule # 2 - Coconut Trees: Do not set your tent up underneath of them.

Rule # 3 - Shake Your Shoes Out: Scorpions like dark and dingy places to hide.

Rule # 4 – Don’t wade the estuary near dark: Crocodiles hunt at this time.

     Things will be getting very busy with clients, and multi-day trips soon. I will try to keep posting regularly. I will also try to get some shots of non-avian wildlife like iguanas, snakes, and perhaps the crocodile (If I can find him). If Nina decides to come in for a visit I will post one of her as well. For you folks that won’t be bored by it (a few grand-parents come into mind) I will end with a long list of the birds I have encountered thus far. Enjoy!

Squirrel Cuckoo

Tropical Kingbird

Rufous-collared Sparrow

Clay colored robin

Crimson fronted-parakeet

Orange-fronted parakeet

White throated magpie-jay

Bare throated tiger heron

Yellow crowned night-heron

Great Egret

Snowy Egret

Cattle Egret

Tri-colored Heron

Little blue Heron

Green Heron

Whimbrel

Willet

Hoffman’s Woodpecker

Cinnamon hummingbird

Barred antshrike

Great kiskadee

Social flycatcher

Scissortailed flycatcher

Scarlet Macaw

Nicarauguan grackle

Black head trogon

Ground Dove

White winged Dove

Inca dove

Blue-gray tanager

Scrub euphonia

Brown Pelican

Royal Tern

Magnificent frigate bird

Ringed kingfisher

Belted kingfisher

Green kingfisher

Mangrove Swallow

Common Paraque

Crested Caracara

Black Vulture

Turkey Vulture

Roadside Hawk

Lesser Ground Cuckoo

Striped headed Sparrow

Groove-billed Ani

Brown Booby

My goal is to photograph as many of these species as possible to show folks back home, however, many species are quite skittish and it will take a lot of time and patience for a chance at a decent photo. Stay tuned!