March 28th - April 6th



My experience in Costa Rica has come to a close and after a couple of busy travel days I now find myself at home in Canada. It was the hardest goodbye I have ever experienced, three months in Costa Rica had left me feeling as though I had family there, and no, I’m not just talking about the birds. 

I made the best of my last week in CR, getting up early to walk through the forest and along the beach.  With no tours during my last week I had a lot of free time. On one particular morning I went up into to the mountain to try one more time at photographing the long-tailed manakins and their strange dances. Although I heard many of these dances going on, I was unable to get very close. I did however manage to find myself in rather exciting situation…while walking down a narrow path I was suddenly attacked from above by a large animal. I turned and ran, unsure what beast descended upon me from the tree tops. Once safely back at the main road I stopped and listened. Whatever had driven me out was still making a lot of noise and I could not resist the temptation to find out what it was.  I slowly walked back into the thick forest, following the strange grunts and growls that led me to its exact location. I peered through the dense undergrowth to see a spectacular bird; the Great Curassow. A huge bird, about the same size as your christmas turkey. I was incredibly lucky to find this bird, to give you an idea of just how rare it is…people have lived in these mountains since childhood and never seen one. But why had it driven me off so aggressively? The broken eggshells at the foot of a small tree revealed what she was protecting; not only had I stumbled one of the rare birds of Costa Rica, I had also found it’s nest.

Great Currasow (female)

It was also on this day that I discovered something else. In the previous week I had spent some time trying to photograph hummingbirds outside the cabinas where I stayed. Hummingbird photography is extremely challenging, as they are the smallest and most agile birds on earth. Getting a picture of them at all would be next to impossible if it weren’t for one thing…hummingbirds are sugar addicts, and they can be tempted to any precise location by the sweet promise of nectar. The feeder I had hung was attracting a good number of hummers to my set-up, and I experimented with using high-speed flash to freeze hummingbirds in flight (kind of like bullet-time in the matrix).

Rufous-tailed hummingbird



However, I really wanted a photograph of a hummingbird feeding naturally. So I experimented with all the red flowers I could find, fixing them to a tree to see if the hummingbirds showed any interest, but to no avail.  It was here in the mountains that I found a small tree with red-flowers that was attracting a large number of hummingbirds, so I collected a few of these flowers and brought them back with me. I fixed it to the tree next to the feeder and didn't have to wait very long…



I have to admit that I have been holding back on you guys. Keeping perhaps the most exciting member of Costa Rican avifauna all to myself…Seeing as this will be my last Costa Rican post for a while, it is only fitting to finish with the best. Tambor is one of a very few areas in the world where you can still see the Scarlet Macaw in it’s natural habitat. The birds were extirpated from here (locally extinct) but later reestablished through a successful reintroduction program. Now, a few small groups of Macaws can be seen flying overhead, moving too and from their favorite feeding grounds. They add a truly tropical flavor to the Costa Rican landscape…












On that same day I found another fascinating bird tucked away in the mangroves of the estuary. The Anhinga is closely related to the cormorants we are familiar with here in Canada. It feeds on fish that it catches in a rather unique way; it cannot produce waterproofing oil seen in most other aquatic birds, so it’s feathers quickly become water logged, helping the anhinga to become neutrally buoyant and move swiftly under the water. It holds its neck in a kinked shape that springs forward to impale small fish. It is often seen with only its long neck protruding above the water, giving it the nickname “snakebird”

Anhinga

The question now is what to do with the blog…I have decided to continue writing and sharing some of my photography with anyone who is interested. However, this time I will be posting pictures of the incredible wildlife that is found just off our own “Rich Coast”.  I will be guiding kayak tours off of Deer Island this summer, as well as working as a marine biologist interpreter on the Quoddy Link whale watching boat. I will try to keep the blog up to date with the latest happenings of the bay of fundy and the coming and goings of the many spectacular animals that depend on it’s productivity for their survival. Minke whales, humpbacks, endangered right whales and the gigantic fin whales are common residents of our coastal ocean here in southern New Brunswick. Seals, porpoises, eagles and a myriad of other seabirds and sea creature make this area one, if not the most productive and ecologically important coastal zones of Canada. I urge you to come visit this summer, send me an e-mail and we can plan your adventure.


I spent a lot of time in Costa Rica thinking about the difference between a tropical country and a seasonal one like Canada, where four distinct seasons bring about every mix of elements imaginable. I often found myself asking…why do we do it? I began thinking about this more and more and spending time in the tropics helped to answer this question. I believe that it is the contrast between the seasons that makes up the true beauty of the north. The birds may seem to abandon us, the trees will shed their leaves and heavy snowfall will wrap our lives in a cold blanket. But every winter holds the promise of spring; that winter will loosen its icy grasp and the snow will melt away, leaving a fresh palette to be painted by the budding leaves and spring flowers. The birds will come to feast on the life emerging from every forest, lake and river. Serving as a reminder of the riches to be found in these places and urging us to go out and experience it. The seasons bring about a transformation that makes our lives more interesting, changes our activities and brings family closer together. They bring about exciting alterations in times when our lives may seem monotonous, and always gives us something fresh to look forward too. To stand tall as witnesses to this emergence of life is our reward for being the hardy Canadians that we are.

It was hard to leave Costa Rica, the beauty of the land and its people make for an experience never to forget. Thank-you to Bruce Smith, who took me under his wing and taught me what it means to be a guide; you were a great mentor and I am very excited for what the future holds. Carlos, Jeimy, Rosy, Mora and the rest of the folks at H and B; thank-you very much! I will look forward to my next stay with my new “tropical” family who greatly enriched my experience and to whom I am forever thankful. I will miss you all and look forward to our next adventure.  Until then, it is nice to breathe the cold air of the north once again…

Thank-you for all your support and kind words.
-Nick

March 16th to 27th


I finally had a brief encounter with a bird I have been searching for since I arrived here in Costa Rica. Until last evening I had only seen this bird as a distant figure silhouetted against a setting sun. While rounding a river bend down in the estuary it flew low over the water towards me, my camera settings were all out of whack, set for photographing small birds in the dim light of the forest undergrowth and I had only seconds to “shoot from the hip”. This is my long awaited “Espatula Rosada” or Roseate Spoonbill. The scientific name is Ajaja ajaja, pronounced “Ahaha ahaha”, proving that taxonomists do have a sense of humor. They must have been laughing at the beak...jerks.

Roseate Spoonbill, Ajaja ajaja

This species feeds in shallow fresh or coastal waters by swinging that spoon-shaped bill from side to side as it steadily walks through the water. It feeds on crustaceans, aquatic beetles and bugs, frogs and newts and very small fish. I am yet to find the spot where they feed, I am pretty sure that it’s far off the beaten path.

One of the most memorable moments of the last few weeks occurred during an evening tour up the Panica river. I was maneuvering my kayak underneath a tight passage through the branches of a sunken tree when something drew my eye. Not a foot from my kayak was the unmistakable scale pattern of a Boa constrictor, partially submerged under the water. Even more exciting, I could see that it was tightly coiled around a Basilisk lizard (known by some as the Jesus Christ lizard for it’s ability to run across the water). The Boa had grabbed the lizard, which was almost as big as it was, and was now attempting to asphyxiate it. The result of the initial struggle had left the two reptiles in an awkward position; the boa’s head was latched onto the lizard but submerged underwater, while the lizard was tightly coiled by the boa with it’s head out of the water and staring directly at me. It was almost like the lizard was asking for help, but I am not one to get between a boa constrictor and it’s dinner.

Boa constrictor constricting a basilisk lizard
It was an interesting situation...with the boa unable to breath, it would have to let go of the lizard to get it’s head above the surface. The Basilisk could breath, well, if it weren’t for the boa trying to squeeze the life out of it. Both reptiles found themselves in a similar situation; who could take the next breath? After a few minutes I could see the life starting to drain from the Basilisk, and suddenly it’s claws broke free from the log and it fell back into the water, unconscious. The coils of the snake relaxed, and the sleek, scaled head of the boa broke through the surface, it was over. It is rare to see a Boa constrictor in the wild, let alone to see one in such an epic struggle; a dramatic example of life at it’s most wild.



I hope everyone got to see the super moon last week. It sure lit up the bay here in Tambor. I went down to the beach and watched it rise through the clouds at the entrance of the bay.

Super moon, better than all the other moons. Making all the other moons jealous.

While exploring the Curu wildlife refuge I found a great spot to photograph Trogons. Trogons are quintessential neo-tropical birds that are fairly inactive, perching for long periods of time before taking flight to pluck fruit from trees. It is odd too watch them as they carefully select the ripest fruits. I set-up next to a dried up mangrove lagoon and hid underneath a palm tree. Once I was concealed, a group of trogons moved in. They remained perched on a nearby tree, swiveling their heads around 180 degrees, zeroing in on the particular fruit they desired before plucking it while hovering in mid-air. They would repeat this many times, even if the particular tree had hundreds of fruits on it. I didn’t understand why they didn’t just land on the fruit tree and begin eating to their hearts content. It must be a way of remaining concealed from potential predators. Here are a couple photos of a beautiful species; the Violaceous Trogon...

Violaceous trogon (female)

Violaceous trogon (male)

Trogons possess a combination of physical traits that have provided scientists with a particular dilemma in terms of determining their relationships with other birds. Many different bird groups have been suggested as their closest relatives including toucans, parrots and even owls. They have a particular toe arrangement is found in no other bird species, and may suggest that that they represent are very ancient group of birds and have no close relatives. Anyway, enough with this ornithological babble, although I do find it very interesting and maybe some of you do as well. I have seen 4 species of trogons so far; black-head trogon, violaceous trogon, elegant trogon and lastly, the unforgettable resplendent quetzal from the cloud forests of Monteverde.

A couple more from that day at Curu wildlife refuge...

Cattle egret

Black vulture


I found a group of birds feeding on a sandbar while walking down the river a few days ago... To get a better angle I tried climbing a tree but once halfway up I discovered that a hive of killer bees had already claimed this tree. They began to swarm and I made a controlled descent down the tree, although a witness (had their been one) would probably have claimed that I fell out of the tree. I ran as far as I could with the sound of the angry insect mob behind me. I could feel them in my hair and on my clothes... Luckily, I escaped without a single sting, although I removed a fair number of stingers that were embedded in my clothes and shoes. There was even a stinger stuck in the wristband of my watch, and you could see a small drop of venom at its base.

Killer bee stinger embedded in the wristband of my watch, note small drop of venom


Aside from that encounter things have been pretty laid-back during the last couple weeks. I have been wading through the murky water when the tide is low, mentally reassuring myself that I do not constitute the preferred diet of crocodilians.  I settle in under a rock edge with some resident iguanas that have become accustomed to my presence. I watch as the incoming tide brings in a fresh feed of fish that attracts some of the locals and makes for a great show.

Snowy egret

Yellow-headed carara
Green kingfisher (male)


Mangrove swallow


Tricolor heron
Great egret


There is a green heron that fishes amongst the rocks. Spend any amount of time with these birds and their intelligence and cunning becomes apparent immediately...

Green heron


Green heron

Green herons have been observed engaging in all kind of unique behaviour and even been seen doing something once thought unique to humans; using bait to catch fish...check it out by clicking on this link...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNTw7GH325U

Awesome video, someone needs to get that narrator his own nature show ASAP.
Please excuse the obnoxious ending.

Green heron

Here's a bird that you may recognize...ospreys come down to Costa Rica during the northern winter and like me, some will soon be making their way back to Canada. This one is carrying away a good-sized fish. They hold the fish head first so that they are more aerodynamic in flight.




You may have noticed a small signature in the lower corners of my images. Due to the increased traffic on the blog (from some unusual countries) I have had to add a small watermark to protect my images. I hope it doesn't draw from the aesthetic value too much and if anyone would like a watermark free image for their own use just let me know and I would be more than happy to send you one. Best wishes to everyone back home! Thanks for reading…going to end with this picture of a cloud forest hummingbird. Note the spiderweb on the bill, they use spider silk to construct their nests; super cool.

Green-crowned brilliant

March 14th -15th - Cloud Forest of Monteverde

Monteverde is a 4 hour bus ride through the deforested hills of the central pacific slope. Luckily, I had a guide to help me get there, Rosie from H and B came with me to be my Spanish translator and nature guide.  However, she had never been there either, so it was the blind leading the blind. We missed the bus to our destination and ended up relying on the tried and tested method of hitch-hiking. If it wasn't for Rosie I would never had gotten there. We managed to hitch a ride with a van who was going to pick up a group of tourists. The van crawled slowly up the last 30 km of rough dirt roads… Looking out over the barren hills it was hard to believe that we were so close to the most famous cloud forest in the world but sure enough, once near the top you could begin to see the fog shrouded beginnings of the great forest. The town near the reserve is called Santa Elena; it is a popular tourist area with many people coming to see the reserve.  In the evening we visited the Ranarium (frog exhibit) and the serpentarium (snake exhibit) and became acquainted with some of Monteverde’s residents that are best viewed through a pane of glass.

 The next day we took the 6AM bus to the reserve… One of my main goals of the trip was to find a Resplendent quetzal, said to be the most beautiful bird in the world, it is also an endangered species and  one of the most elusive birds in Costa Rica, living only high in the cloud forests. While waiting for the park to open, I found one of these birds perched high in the canopy and managed to get a shaky photo, but enough to prove that I succeeded in my quest. The male Quetzal is a very odd looking bird, with a bright green Mohawk and huge tail feathers that blew wildly in the strong mountain breeze. 

Male Resplendent Quetzal

This photo really doesn't do this bird justice, I encourage you to google image it, just copy and past "Resplendent Quetzal" in the google bar. or you can just click this link to an award winning photo of this great bird...http://www.naturescapes.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=186158

The cloud forest was incredible, with massive trees formed a thick canopy, shading the forest floor from the little light that filtered through the misty clouds. The constant moisture produced by these clouds nurtured the abundant growth of epiphtyes; plants which grow on other plants. These, along with mosses and lichens covered every available space on every tree, making each one beautifully unique, as though it could come alive and tell you the best stories of the past millennium. 



Bird songs echoed through the forest, but it was hard to spot any in the tangled growth. Halfway along our hike I nearly stepped on a huge tarantula, which Rosie pointed out in startled excitement. Eager to photograph it I tried to direct it’s lumbering movements with my foot, it climbed aboard my shoe and made a run up my pant leg. I knew that it is poisonous but not quite sure just how poisonous. The worried look on the face of my nature guide made me realize that I should probably get it off.  I tried coaxing it down with a stick, but it climbed higher and got the small hooks of it’s legs into my polar fleece and continued to climb up towards my head. I had to carefully remove my fleece and place it on the ground before it would let go and continue on it’s way.

Tarantula attack (Graphic)

Uh oh...

From there we continued on our way across a suspension walking bridge built over the rainforest-canopy…




Here is an awkward picture of me with a big tree...I like it.



The trail began to narrow as we approached the top of a mountain. The trees became much smaller, stunted by the high winds. We were now hiking directly into the clouds...




The trail ends in a look-out where you can view the vast expanse of protected forest. A sign beside the trail read “ The continental divide which extends from Canada to Argentina passes through this point. Beyond this sign water flows to the Atlantic ocean. Behind this sign water flows to the pacific Ocean”. I  took a drink and poured water into each ocean. We watched the clouds roll over the distant hills, every now and then a gap would form and you could see all the way to the sunny Nicoya peninsula and the blue-green waters of the pacific ocean.



The cloud forest is also home to many different hummingbird species, the sheer abundance of them provided for great opportunities to photograph these “jewels of the mountains”. 

Green-crowned Brilliant (female)

Violet Sabrewing (super badass name) Largest hummer in the americas (also super badass)

Green crowned brilliant (female) showing long tongue

Violet Sabrewing

Purple throated Mountain-gem (male)

Green violet-ear (male)
Green Hermit (rare species)

Violet Sabrewing
For me, Monteverde was a special place, an example what life can do given unlimited time, water and sunlight. It is a but a remnant of the ancient forest which once extended through the mountains of central America, but what remains should be protected indefinably. Afterall, in the words of the great E. O Wilson “ Destroying it for economic gain would be like burning a renaissance painting to cook a meal”

More posts soon to come, have been very busy with tours lately. Hope everyone is enjoying the warm weather back home! Thanks for reading!
-Nick


March 7th - 13th


We went for an overnight camping trip to the top of the mountains that overlook the bay. We drove up steep winding dirt roads, crawling at a snail’s pace until we reached the top of the mountain where you could look out across the Nicoya peninsula. You had a great view of the Bahia Ballena, where Tambor and my home is located. 

The Bahia Ballena, my home in Costa Rica. You can see the airstrip in the middle-left of the bay, on the right hand side you can see the estuary


The forest found at the top is much different from the dry, open forest found along the coastline. Even though we may have only traveled 10 kilometers, the ecosystem changed dramatically and new bird species were all around. We set up camp in a small valley surrounded by thick jungle. That evening we went shrimping. I wasn’t sure what to expect...as any shrimp that I knew of came from the ocean, not on top of a mountain. The sun set and the forest went dark as readied my headlamp and we set off down a dirt road. We came to a riverbed; shallow pools etched by time into the smooth limestone rock that held crystal clear water. Sure enough, we started to see our first shrimp, which were the size of small lobsters. Their eyes glowed as luminous orbs in the beams of our headlamps. Carlos lunged forward and with one swift movement cut a large shrimp in half with a machete. This was shrimpin’. Although I usually prefer to observe nature with minimal interference, it is nice to enter the primitive state of a hunter-gatherer. Carlos handed me a machete and off we went up the river. It was great to be with local people, their conduct in such an environment set an example of how I could move and act; with more freedom and carelessness than usual. There was also a strong sense of invincibility while armed with a machete, or maybe it was the beer. My vision was limited to the narrow beam cast by my light that periodically illuminated the gigantic trunks of saba trees, reminding me of the massive forest all around. These trees were the largest I had ever seen, dwarfing even the most magnificent white pines from back home. After about two hours of shrimping we had caught about 2 kilos. We returned to the campsite and cooked some of the juicy tail meat over an open fire. It was delicious and tasted like lobster.

Shrimpin' ain't easy

That evening I also found an injured mottled owl. He/she had broken a wing and was now doomed to the forest floor. I contemplated trying to help but knew there was nothing I could do. I snapped a few photos to preserve it’s memory…

Mottled Owl


The morning brought the usual chorus of bird songs. Some that I had heard before and others I was hearing for the first time. There was a particularly prominent series of calls that would start with a resonant whistling and then enter into a repeating cat like meow. These were the mating calls of the long-tailed manakin, perhaps one of the most unusual birds when it comes to mating rituals. I set-off to try and find one in action…I didn’t have to go far, I could see a flurry of activity just through the undergrowth next to the campsite. Two male long tailed manakins were perched on a horizontal branch, whistling their "Toledo!" call loudly…after a few minutes, a drably colored female showed up to check them out. Immediately the two males broke into a perfectly choreographed dance. One male would leap into the air and hover over the female while giving out a cat-like meow then descend back down to the perch at which point the next male jumped forward and repeated. The result was a cartwheeling dance that continued for a minute or more while the female judged the competitors. The strange thing is that the same males display with eachother again and again, becoming loyal dance partners for 5 years or more. The females always mate with the same male and the less dominant male never gets a chance. Not sure how this strange relationship came to be or why the less endowed male seems to think it’s a good idea, but hey, whatever works. Watching the dance is mesmerizing, the bright blues and reds along with the long tail filaments of the male’s plumage contribute the proper attire for such bizarre behavior. I am told that the males “do not dance because they are good dancers, they dance because the girls are nice”. They are extremely difficult to photograph, being small birds in a dimly lit jungle and this is the best I could manage.

Male long-tailed manakin

We ate breakfast surrounded by a troop of howler monkeys. When I first arrived in Costa Rica it took some time to get used to sharing your space with another primate species. Now it seems all too normal. I entitle this one “Flying Monkey Nuts”.

Flying Monkey Nuts


While walking down by the river one evening I came across a Tamandua, which is a species of ant-eater. He/she was sleeping up in a tree and seemed fairly unconcerned as I watched from below. Tamanduas have long pointed faces and look like they are wearing a black vest, very formal like. They use their large curved claws to rip open ant hills and termite mounds and then lick up the residents with their extremely long, sticky tongue.

Tamandua


I have been spending a fair amount of evenings down on the beach, photographing various sea and shorebirds. One of my favorites subjects are the magnificent frigatebirds that soar over the bay with huge 5 foot wingspans.  I have found a great spot to sit in the evening hours, just as the sun is setting behind the mountains. Local fisherman return after fishing and clean the days catch, throwing scraps into the water. This lures the frigate birds within reach of my lens. In this photo you can see this males bright red throat pouch, which he inflates like a balloon during courtship to impress the females.

Magnificent Frigate bird, male

A recent visitor to the beach at Tambor, the collared plover...

Collared plover, female

Tomorrow I am leaving for the cloud forests of Monteverde.  Due to its high altitude – some 4,662 ft (1,440 m) above sea level – Monteverde is privileged to receive a steady supply of clouds and the life-giving moisture that they contain. This moisture, often in the form of fog, catches on the branches of the tallest trees and drips down to the other organisms below. This helps to support a complex and far-reaching ecosystem, one that harbors over 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds, tens of thousands of insect species, and over 2,500 varieties of plants, 420 of which are orchids alone. It is one of the richest rainforests in the world. I am not sure where I will be staying but I am extremely excited to go and explore. You can expect some interesting photos upon my return. Hope everyone is doing well with winter beginning to loosen it's grasp. Miss you all and take care.
-Nick